This post is also available in:
Two Fatal Climbing Accidents Involving Sauschwänze — Stephan Binder and Andreas Würtele report on incidents at Peilstein and Martinswand and provide an opportunity to discuss what requires special attention when using Sauschwänze.
The so-called “Sauschwanz” is found primarily in sport climbing areas. Improper use of this device can have fatal consequences, and several serious—including fatal—accidents have already occurred in the past. In a conversation with Stephan Binder of the Alpine Police, we received information about a climbing accident on the Peilstein that immediately brought to mind a fall that occurred years ago on the Martinswand. Andreas Würtele investigated that accident at the time and contributes his expert opinion as a specialist and route setter to this article.
Rappelling Accident on the Peilstein
On May 28, 2022 , two climbers who were friends began climbing the Hahnenkamm route (UIAA III, 30 m) in the Peilstein climbing area, in the Kleiner Zinnenkessel sector. They climbed along the ridge to the belay station of the neighboring route and secured themselves there using a sling and a screw-lock carabiner each. The belay station consisted of two standardized adhesive bolts connected by a chain. Attached to the lower bolt (and connected to the chain) was also a so-called “Sauschwanz”—a device screwed into the rock with the open end facing the rock face, used for belaying and lowering climbers on a top rope—which was permanently attached there.
After the rope had been properly clipped in for rappelling and preparations had been made for the first climber to rappel, he moved from the ridge to the rappelling position. During this maneuver, the rope came loose from the Sauschwanz, and since the self-belay had already been unclipped, he fell.
The Consequence
